Would I be wrong to say that every true food lover dreams of travelling to Donostia / San Sebastián at least once in their life to taste its world-famous cuisine? The city itself feels like a gift: calm, bright, open to the sea. I was lucky enough to explore it under a gentle November sun, with perfect weather that made every walk a pleasure. Strolling along La Concha and Zurriola, I felt as if I’d stepped into a postcard. And the water didn’t even feel cold — and that’s saying something coming from a Finn.
 
As expected, I set out to discover its bars and pintxos. I tried many, but two of them stayed with me in a special way.

Just a few steps from the Hotel María Cristina, where over the years stars such as Audrey Hepburn, Woody Allen and Penélope Cruz have stayed during the city’s famous Film Festival, you’ll find Kata4. Its name plays on both its address — Santa Catalina 4 — and the Spanish verb “catar” (which means to taste). Opened in 2011, it was San Sebastián’s very first oyster bar, blending contemporary elegance with authentic local warmth.

Their house specialties are oysters and 100 % acorn-fed Ibérico ham, freshly sliced to order. Yet the pintxo that truly won me over was one they suggested I try: scallop with cassava purée and tree-tomato confit.

The cuisine at Kata4 honours traditional Donostia flavours while weaving in subtle Peruvian influences — the mark of its talented chef, Carlos. He kindly invited me into the kitchen to watch the process, and then took me to discover the source of its magic: the superb quality of the scallops, bought from Aurki, a trusted supplier in the Martutene district. There, Galder offered me a taste of a raw scallop — an unforgettable little gift. When I return to Donostia, this pintxo will be my first stop.

In the Gros district, just a few steps from the surf-loved waves, sits Urtxori-Bi. For almost thirty years, they’ve been cooking with a single purpose: that every guest leaves happy. They’re known for their cod dishes and homestyle recipes, but their signature pintxo is the Picantilla — and of course, I had to try it.

Oscar welcomed me with genuine warmth and handed me a Picantilla straight away. One bite and I understood its reputation: harmony, flavour, texture. Northern bonito, fresh homemade mayonnaise, a crisp pastry shell, vibrant vegetables — every element tasted cared for.

I asked him what the secret was. “There isn’t one,” he said. “It’s all about excellent, local ingredients.” The bonito comes from Aurki. The lettuce and onions, grown on nearby “baserris” (local farms), are bought from Muno, right across the square. And the pastry tartlet? Baked each morning at Opilla Bakery, just on the corner. Everything within Plaza Nafarroa itself — a tiny, honest, delicious chain of producers. That’s why it tastes the way it does. And that’s why I’ll be back.